i 
rTffa 

■7^77 






I 



^^^H 



4 






1?77 








ft 



CUTTING FOR IJEN AND BOYS f 

BY THE ■> 

MAGIC SCALE 




AUTHOR. 



COInTTEISTTS. 



Page. 

Boy's Coat 17 

Boy's Knee Pants 18 

Boy's Waist 17 

Coat Sleeve 6 

Cutting and Making 24 

Double Breasted Coats 12 

Drawers 20 

Dressing Gowns 14 

Frock Coat (Cutaway) . . . : 3 

NightShirt , 24 

Notes ■. 3d page of cover. 

Overcoats 12 

Preface 1 

Prince Albert Coat 8 

Rolling Collar for Frock, Sack or Overcoat 7 

Sack Coat 10 

Shirt 22 

Shirt Sleeve 24 

Shrinking Cloth 1 7 

Side Flap for Frock Coat 7 

Taking Measures 2 

Trousers 15 

Undershirts 24 

Vests 12 



PRICE, POSTPAID, 50 CENTS 



THE ROOD MAGIC SCALE CO., 



QUINCY, ILLINOIS. 



Ife 



kj£ Copyright secured, 1890, by The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



MS 




ithe 

;ic Scale being 

one-ninth its actual 

By it any lady can 

cut all styles of ladies' and 

lildren's garments, (sleeve inclu- 

without refitting. So simple, that 

a child can learn from the book alone. It is 

not a Chart or model! Price, post-paid, $3.00. 

Agents Wanted! Tub Rood Masic Scalx Co., Quincy.W. 



1TOTICE. 
The Dress-Makers' Magic Scale, 
improved and simplified, and this 
Book, are each and separately copy- 
righted according to copyright laws. 
Any person infringing on our rights 
will be prosecuted to the fullest extent 
of the law. 

THE ROOD MAGIC SCALE CO. 



FR-E^FACE. 



FOR several years, we have had occasional calls for a book on cutting 
gentlemen's garments. The demand has been so small, that we 
did not feel justified in going to the expense of having such a book 
published. Another reason for being slow to give such a book to our 
patrons, was our knowledge of the difficulties standing in the way of 
making it so plain that our patrons could learn to cut gentlemen's gar- 
ments, and get satisfactory results, Cutting gentlemen's garments is a 
trade, and our best cutters spend from three months to a year in hard 
study and close application, before they venture to apply for a position 
in a first-class tailoring establishment. To be a good cutter, one must 
be an expert in taking measures; a very careful draftsman, and have a 
practical knowledge of the construction of a garment, after it passes out 
of his hands. Again, the making of a garment, after it is well cut, is 
another trade, which requires years of practice. 

The divisions and sub-divisions of inches used for gentlemen, are 
entirely different from those used in cutting ladies' garments, and it 
requires greater mechanical skill to cut and make a nice fitting and 
stylish coat, than to make a close-fitting basque. A gentleman's coat 
must set nicely on the form, whether buttoned or unbuttoned, and unless 
it is cut correctly, padded properly and put together in a workmanlike 
manner, it will not do this. It was for these reasons that we hesitated 
to publish a book for cutting gentlemen's clothing. We have spent 
many months' hard work in writing the pages of this book, investigating 
everything obtainable in this line, and testing carefully every drafting 
we have made; and at the same time making the instructions so explicit 
that we do not see how our patrons can fail to understand same. 

We feel satisfied that if the measures are taken correctly and the 
drafting made according to those measures, as per our instruction, very 
satisfactory results can be obtained. The book is very complete, giving 
full instructions for cutting Frock Coats, Sack Coats, Overcoats, Dress- 
ing Gowns, Trousers, Vests, Double-breasted Coats, Shirts, Under 
Garments, etc. The engravings are clear, accurate, and (with our in- 
structions) very easily understood. 

We trust that the work will give our patrons entire satisfaction, and 
that they will be enabled by it, to cut their husbands', sons' and brothers' 
garments perfectly, and thus add to the fame of our Magic Scale. 

THE ROOD MAGIC SCALE CO. 



Quincy, III., October 15th, 1890. 



CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 



Taking Measures. 

1. Remove the coat and collar, and place a cord around the waist, so that it 
will come at the top of the hip bones. 

2. NECK MEASURE. With tape line, take measure of neck, next to the- 
skin, low down and smoothly, not to choke. 

3. ARM'S EYE. Take arm's eye measure tight, close up to body, and just 
below point of shoulder bone. Do not let tape line come up on the top of shoul- 
der, or measure will be too large. 

4. CHEST. Take chest measure, measuring entirely around the body, under 
the arms, and over the fullest part of chest. The tape line should run straight 
around the form, and the measure should be taken neither tightly nor loosely — 
smoothly. 

5. WAIST, Take waist measure smoothly, around the waist, just above cord 

6. FRONT. Take front measure from prominent bone in back of neck, to 
the cord or waist line in center of front. 

7. BACK. Take the back measure from the prominent bone in back of neck^ 
to the cord or waist line in center of back. 

8. UNDER- ARM. Take the under-arm measure from under the arm (as 
high up as you can push the tape line, while the arm hangs naturally by the 
side), to the cord or waist line, at the side. 

9. SHOULDER. Take the shoulder measure from the center of the side of 
neck (where it joins the body), to a point just over the point of shoulder bone. 

10. SEAT. Take the seat measure entirely around the fGrrn, smoothly, over 
the largest part of the hips and seat. 

11. SKIRT. Take the skirt measure from the waist line to the point you 
wish the garment to come below the waist, whether a coat, dressing gown or shirt 

12. ARM TO ELBOW. Take arm to elbow measure from point of shoulder 
bone, at top of shoulder, to the elbow, while hand rests at front waist line. 

13. ARM TO WRIST. Take arm to wrist measure from the same point to 
prominent bone outside of wrist, while hand rests on front waist line. 

14. ELBOW. Take elbow measure, smoothly, around the elbow, while hand 
rests on front waist line. 

15. WRIST. Take wrist measure next to the skin, smoothly, around wrist. 

16. OUTSIDE LEG. Take the outside leg measure from theVaist line at the 
side to within one inch of the floor, for full length trousers or drawers; or one 
inch below the knee for knee pants. 

17. INSIDE LEG. Take the inside leg measure from the crotch, high up, to 
the same point below the waist as outside leg measure was taken, that is, as far 
below the waist line, measuring on the inside of leg. 

18. KNEE. Take the knee measure around the knee, as large as you^want 
the trousers to be at that point. Do not get this measure too small. 

19. ANKLE. Take the ankle measure around the ankle, as large as you 
want the trousers to be at that point. 

20. A measure may be taken across the chest, from arm to arm, also across 
the back, on the chest line, from arm to arm ; but these measures are not needed 
unless the chest or back are unusually wide or narrow, so as to be entirely out 
of proportion with each other. (See note 9 on third page of cover.) 

21. Remember, that unless you get a good measure, you cannot have a nice- 
fitting garment, no matter what system you use. Do not get your neck, waist, 
chest or elbow measures too tight, and do not get your arm's eye measure too 
loose. We have made the measures as near like they are taken in cutting 
ladies' garments, as possible, so as to make it easy for our patrons who use the 
Magic Scale, to learn to take them. 



Address all Communications to The Kood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. 



Cutaway Frock Coat— Back. (Fig. 50.) 

1. Draw line 1 one and one-half inches 
from the edge of paper, lengthways. 

2. Draw line 2 from top of line 1,. 
square across paper. 

3. Make dot A on line 2, the neck 
measure from junction of lines 1 and 2, 
using FIFTHS of an inch. 

4. Make dot B on line 1, one-half of an 
inch below junction of lines 1 and 2. 

5. Make dot C on line 1, four inches 
below dot B. 

6. Place Y corner of Scale at dot A T 
and draw curved line 3, from dot A to 
dot B, using curved side of Scale. 

7. Draw line 4 from dot C, square 
across paper. 

8. Place the W corner of Scale at dot 
A, the star on long side of Scale (7 in- 
ches from W corner) resting on line 4, 
and draw line 5 from dot A., one-half inch 
longer than shoulder measure. 

9. Make dot D on line 1, the arm's 
eye measure below dot C, using SIXTHS 
of an inch. 

10. Make dot E on line 1, one-half inch 
below dot D. 

11. Make dot F on line 1, the arm's 
eye measure below dot E using FIFTHS 
of an inch. 

12. Make dot G on line 1, two inches 
below dot F. 

13. Make dot H on line 1, the length 
of back measure below dot B. 

14. Draw line 6 from dot D; line 7 
from dot E; line 8 from dot F; line 9 
from dot G, and line 10 from dot H, all 
square across paper. 

15. Make dot I on line 10, one and one- 
fourth inches from dot H. 

16. Draw line 11 from dot B to dot I, 
perfectly straight. 

17. Make dot J on line 6, the chest 
measure from the junction of lines 6 
and 11, using FIFTHS of an inch. 

18. Make dot K on line 9, the waist 
measure from junction of lines 9 and 11, 
using NINTHS of an inch. 

19. Make dot L on line 10, the waist 
measure from dot H, using NINTHS of 
an inch. 

20. Place CURVATURES, small end 
end up, the A star at dot K, and draw curved line 12 from dot K to dot J, using 
the long side. 

21. Move CURVATURES down until the B star rests at dot L, and in same 
way draw line 13 from dot L to dot K. 

22. Place CURVATURES large end up, the S star at dot J, and draw curved 
line 14 from dot J to lowest end of line 5, using short side. 

23. Make dot M on line 7, two and three-fourths inches from junction of lines 7 
and 12. 

24. Make dot N on line 8, one and one-fourth inch from junction of lines 8 and 12.. 

25. Make dot on line 9, one and three-eighths inches from dot K. 

26. Make dot P on line 10, one and one-fourth inches from dot L. 




Address all Communications to The Hood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 



27. Make dot Q on line 8, the chest measure from dot N, using SEVENTHS 
of an inch. 

28. Make dot R on line 8, one-half inch inside of dot Q. 

29. Make dot S on line 10, the waist measure from dot P, using SEVENTHS 
of an inch. 

30. Place large end of CURVATURES up, the point half way between the X 
and Y stars at dot M, and draw curved line 15 from dot M to dot N, using short side 

31. Move CURVATURES down until the V star rests at dot N, and in the 
same way draw curned line 16, from dot N to dot O. 

m 32. Tarn CURVATURES small end up, the F star at dot O/and draw curved 
line 17 from dot to dot P, u-ing the long side. 

33. Place the C star on CURVATURES at dot S, the small end being up, and 
draw curved line 18 from dot S to dot R. 

34. Place large end of CURVATURES up. the P star at dot R, and draw 
curved line 19 from dot R to dot M, using the short side. 

35. Make dot T on line 1, one inch below dot H. 

36. Extend line 11 down one and one-half inch, and draw line 20 from dot T to 
lowest end of line 11. 

6 ~37. Extend line 13 down one and one-fourth inches below line 10, and make dot 
"U so that it will come one inch below line 10, and three-fourths of an inch outside 
of line 13; now draw line 21 from dot U to lowest end of line 13. 

38. Make dot V on line 1, the skirt measure below dot H. 

39. Draw line 22 from dot V, square across paper. 

40. Make dot W on line 22, the waist measure from dot V, using SEVENTHS 
of an inch. 

41. Draw line 23 from dot U to dot W, perfectly straight. 

42. Extend line 18 down, and make dot X two and one-fourth inches below dot S. 

43. Extend line 17 down, and make dot Y two and one-fourth inchesbelow dot P. 

44. Draw line 24 from dot X to dot Y, straight. 



Cutaway Frock Coat — Front. (Fig. 51.) 

1 . Draw lines 1 and 2 as in the back. 

2. Make dot A on line 2, two and one-fourth inches from junction of lines 1 and 2. 

3. Make dot B on line 2, double the neck measure from dot A, using SEV- 
ENTHS of an inch. 

4. Make dot C on line 1, two and one-fourth inches below the junction of lines 
1 and 2. 

5. Make dot D on line 1, one inch below dot C. 

6. Draw line 3 from dot C, square across paper. 

7. Make dot E on line 3, double the neck measure from dot C, using SIXTHS 
of an inch. 

8. Place the W corner of Scale at dot B, the star on long side (seven inches 
from the corner), resting on line 3, and draw line 4 from dot B, one-half inch 
longer than shoulder measure. 

9. Make dot F even with and one and one-eighth inches from dot D. 

10. With CURVATURES, the I star at dot B, draw line 5 from dot B to dot 
E, using the short curve. (See note 7, third page of cover.) 

11. With CURVATURES, the RR star at dot E, draw curved line 6 from dot 
E to dot F, using the short side. 

12. Make dot G on line 6, one and one eighth inches from dot F. 

13. Make dot H on line 1, one-half inch more than half of the arm's eye 
measure below dot C. 

14. Make dot I on line 1, two inches above dot H. 

15. Draw line 7 from dot I, square across paper. 

16. Make dot J on line 7, according to chest measure, using FOURTHS of an 
inch. 

17. Draw line 8 from dot H, square across paper. 

18. Make dot K on line 8, double the chest measure from dot H, using 
SIXTHS of an inch. 

19. With CURVATURES, large end up, the RR star at dot J, draw line 9 
from dot J up to lowest end of shoulder line. 

20. Place CURVATURES, small end from you, the Z star at dot J, and draw 
line 10 from dot J to dot K. 

Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. 



FIG. 51. 

A B 




21. Measure the length of line 5 in the back, and deduct this from your front 
measure. Now make dot L on line 1, the remainder of the front measure from 
dot B, measuring in a straight line from dot B to the point on line 1 where 
dot L is to come. ' 

22. Draw line 11 from dot L, square across the paper. 

from dcftE? d0t M ° n Hne U ' one ~f ourth inch further from dot L than dot K is 

24. Make dot N on Vine 1 five and one-half inches below dot L. 

19 ?' ^?^ R J AT T P RE ' 8ma11 end U P> the C star at dot M > draw curved line 
12 from dot M to dot K, using long side. 

26 Extend line 12 down two and three-fonrths of an inch below line 11 and 
make dot O at that point. ' 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 



27. Make dot P in a direct line between dots N and 0, and just one and one- 
fourth inches from dot N. 

28. Draw line 13 from dot P, perfectly straight across dot 0, the width of the 
paper. 

29. Make dot Q on line 13, one-half of the seat measure from dot P. 

30. With CURYATURES, small end up, the H star at dot F, draw line 14 
from dot F to dot H, using the long side. 

31. Move CURVATURES down until the E star rests at dot H, and draw line 
15 from dot H to dot P, using the long side. 

32. Make dot R on line 1, three inches more than skirt measure, below dot L. 

33. Draw line 16 from dot R, square across paper. 

34. Make dot S on line 16, three and one-half inches from dot R. 

35. Draw line 17 from dot P to dot S, straight. 

36. Make dot T on line 16, three and one-fourth inches from dot S. 

37. Make dot U on line 17, three inches above dot S. 

38. With CURYATURES, large end up, the I star at dot T, draw curved line 
18 from dot T to dot U, using the short curve. 

39. Make dot V on line 16, one-half inch less than one-half of seat measure, 
from dot T. 

40. Draw line 19 from dot Q to dot V, straight. 

41. Make dot W on line 19, one-half inch less than skirt measure, below dot Q. 

42. Turn Scale over, the Y corner at dot T, and draw curved line 20, from dot 
T to dot W, using curved side of scale. 

43. This gives the back and front. All seams have been allowed in the draft- 
ing, and garment should be cut to the line. 
Padding should be put in around the arm 

«_hole and in the breast. The collar (see 
Fig. 53) is sewed into neck, from dot B in 
the back to dot G in the front, and rolled 
back, with the point at dot F, so as to part- 
ly or wholly cover the first, or top button 
hole. The outer breast pocket should be 
cut so as to be square with line 15, which 
is the front edge of coat, and comes near 
to lines 8 and 10, as shown in Fig. 51. 
The Flap should be sewed in with the 
skirt, and extend about two and one-half 
inches back of the under arm seam. Put 
pockets in the tail and inside breast. By 
studying a tailor-made frock coat you can 
get a better idea as to the construction of 
this garment. 




Coat Sleeve. (Fig. 52.) 

1. Draw lines 1 and 2 the same as in 
the back. 

2. Make dot A on line 2, double the 
arm's eye measure from the junction of- 
lines 1 and 2, using FIFTHS of an inch. 

3. Make dot B on line 1, one-half the 
arm's eye measure below junction of lines 
1 and 2, using FIFTHS of an inch. 

4. Make dot C on line 1, double the 
arm's eye measure below dot B, using 
SEVENTHS of an inch. 

5. Make dot D on line 1, the arm to 
elbow measure, below junction of lines 1 
and 2 

6. Make dot E on line 1, one inch more 
than the arm to wrist measure, below 
junction of lines 1 and 2. 

7. Make dot F on line 1, three-fourths of 
an inch below dot E. 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. 



8. Draw line 3 from dot B ; line 4 from dot D, and line 5 from dot F, all 
square across the paper. 

9. Make dot G on line 3, one-half of arm's eye measure, from dot B. 

10. Make dot H on line 3, two and one-half inches outside of dot G. 

11. Make dot I on line 4, three-fourths of an inch from dot D. 

12. Make dot J on line 4, two inches more than one-half of elbow measure, 
from dot D. 

13. Make dot K on line 4, one inch outside of dot J. 

14. Make dot L on line 5, the wrist measure from dot F. 

15. Draw line 6 from dot E to dot L straight. 

16. Make dot M on line 6, one and one-fourth inches from dot L. 

17. With CURTATURES, large end up, the X star at dot A, draw curved line 
7 from dot A to dot C. 

18. With CURTATURES, small end up, the RR star at dot A, draw curved 
line 8 from dot A to dot H. 

19. With CURTATURES, small end up, the X star at dot C, draw 2urved 
line 9 from dot G to dot C. 

20. With CURTATURES, large end up, the E star at dot K, draw curved 
line 10 from dot H to dot K. 

21. In the same way, draw curved line 11 from dot J to dot G. 

22. With CURTATURES, large end up, the C star at dot K, draw curved 
line 12 from dot K to dot L. 

23. In the samp wav. draw curved line 13 from dot J to dot M. 

23. With CURTATURES, large end up, the C star at dot C, draw curved line 

14 from dot C to dot, I. 

25. With CURTATURES, large end up, the D star at dot I, draw curved line 

15 from dot I to dot E. Seams are allowed in the drafting. 



Side Flap for Frock Coat. (Fig. 53.) 

1. Draw lines ] and 2 as in the back. 

2. Make dot A on line 2, one inch from 
"junction of lines 1 and 2. 

3. Make dot B on line 2, ten to twelve 
inches from dot A (according to the size of 
the waist. 

4 Make dot C on line 1, one and one- 
half inches below junction of lines 1 and 2. 

5. Make dot D on line 1, one inch below 
dot C. 

6. Make dot E square across from dot 

C, one and one-fourth inches. 

7. Make dot F square across from dot 

D, two and one-fourth inches. 

8. Make dot G two and three-fourths 
inches square down from d<»t B. 

9. Draw line 3 from dot B to dot G, 
straight. 

10. Draw line 4 from dot A to dot E, straight. 

11. With CURTATURES, large end up, the Q star at dot F, draw curved line 
5 from dot F to dot E. 

12. With CURTATURES, small end toward you, the G star at dot F, draw 
curved line 6 from dot F to dot G. 

13. Line 2, from dot A to dot B, is sewed in at top of skirt (line 13 in Fig. 51), 
as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 51, the rounded corner of flap coming within 
four and one-half to five inches from front of coat. 

Rolling Collar for Frock, Sack or Overcoat. (Fig. 53.) 

1. Make dot H on line I, four inches below dot D (in Side Flap drafting.) 

2. Make dot I on line 1, one and one-half inches below cot H. 

3. Make dot J on line 1, two inches below dot I. 

4. Draw line 7 from dot H, square across paper. 

5. Make dot K on line 7, two inches more than one-half of neck measure, from 
dot H. 

Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 




CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 



6. Make dot L on line 7, one-fourth inch outside of dot K. 

7. Make dot M, two and three-fourths inches square down from dot L. 

8. Draw line 8 from dot K 1o dot M, straight. 

9. With CURVATURES, large end toward you, the C star at dot I, draw 
curved line 9 from dor, I to dot K. 

10. With CURVATURES, small end toward you, the H star at dot J, draw 
curved line 10 from dot J to dot M. 

11. This forms one-half of collar, line 8 being the center seam in back, line- 
10 sewing into the neck of coat, and line 9 being the top of collar. All seams 
are allowed in the drafting. 

Prince Albert Coat. (Fig. 54.) 

1. The Prince Albert Coat is very similar to the Cutaway Frock Coat just 
given. The back and side body are exactly alike, except that the skirt and tails 
are some longer. The front is cut double breasted, and runs down perfectly 
straight instead of being cut away, and a small dart is taken out at the neck to 
eause the lapel to set weil, which is cut off from the neck to the skirt. Draft as 
follows: Draw lines 1 and 2 the same as for Fig. 51. 

2. Draw line 3, one and one-half inches inside of line 1. 

3. Make dot A on line 2, two and one-fourth inches from junction of lines 3 and 2. 

4. Make dot B on line 2, double the neck measure, from dot A, using SEV- 
ENTHS of aD inch. 

5. Make dot Con line 1, two and one-fourth inches below junction of lines 1 and 2. 

6. Make dot D on line 3, three and one-fourth inches below junction of lines 2 V 
and 3. 

7. Draw line 4 from dot C, square across the paper. 

8. Make dot E on line 4, double the neck measure from junction of lines 3- 
and 4, using SIXTHS of an inch. 

9. Draw line 5 in the same way you drew line 4 in Fig. 51. 

10. Make dot F even with, and one and one-fourth inch from dot D. 

11. With CURVATURES, the I star at dot B, draw curved line 6, from dot B 
to dot E, using short rurve. 

12. With CURVATURES, the RR star at dot E, draw curved line 7 from dot 
E to dot F, using the short side. 

13. Draw line 8 from dot C to dot D, straight. 

14. Make dot G on line 3, one-half inch more than one-half of the arm's eye 
measure below junction of lines 3 and 4. 

15. Make dot H on line 3, two inches above dot G. 

16. Draw line 9 from dot H, square across paper. 

17. Make dot I on line 9, the chest measure from dot H, using FOURTHS of 
an inch. 

18. Draw line 10 from dot G, square across paper. 

19. Make dot J on line 10, double the chest measure from dot G, using 
SIXTHS of an inch. 

# 20. With CURVATURES, large end up, the RR star at dot I, draw curved 
line 11, from dot I up to the lowest end of line 5. 

21. With CURVATURES, small end from you, the Z star at dot I, draw 
curved line 12 from dot I to dot J. 

22. Make dot K on line 3, in the same way you made dot L in Fig. 51. 

23. Draw line 13 from dot K, square across paper. 

24. Make dot L on line 13, one-fourth inch further from dot K than dot J is- 
from dot G. 

25. Make dot M on line 3, five and one-half inches below dot K. 

26. With CURVATURES, small end up, the C star at dot L, draw curved 
line 14 from dot J to dot L. 

27. Extend line 14 down two and three-fourths of an inch below line 13, and 
make dot N at that point. 

28. Draw line 15 from line l,so that it will cross dots M and N perfectly straight 

29. Make dot O on line 15, one inch more than one-half of the seat measure 
from dot M. 

30. Make dot P on line 10, one inch from dot G. 

31. Make dot Q on line 15, one inch from dot M. 

32. With CURVATURES, large end up, the C star at dot D, draw curved line 
16 from dot D to dot P. 

Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. 



FIG. 54 
A B 2 




33. With CURVATURES, small end up, the F star at dot F, draw curved 
line 17 from dot F to dot P. 

34. Draw line 18 from dot P to dot Q, straight. 

35. Make dot R. on line 1, three inches less than skirt measure, below junction 
of lines 1 and 15. 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



10 



CUTTING FOE MEN AND BOYS. 



36. Draw line 19 from dot R, square across paper. 

37. Make dot S on line 19, seven inches more than one-half of seat measure 
from dot R. 

38. Draw line 20 from dot O to dot S. straight. 

39. Make dot T on line 20, three and three-fourths inches' above dot S. 

40. Draw line 21 from dot R to dot T, straight. 

41. Use the same collar and sleeve as for Frock Coat. All seams are allowed 
in the drafting. The pocket should be cut square with line 1. The buttons 
should be one-half inch nearer front edge of coat, at the waist, than at the top. 
The skirt usually comes to the knees. Study a tailor-made Prince Albert Coat 
before trying to make one. 



Sack Coat— Back. (Fig. 55.) 

1. Draw lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, and make 
dots A, B, C and D, the same as for a Frock 
Coat. (See Fig. 50.) 

2. Make dot E on line 1, the back measure, 
below dot B. 

3. Make dot F on line 1, half way between 
dots E and D. 

4. iVLake dot G on line 1,' seven inches below 
dotE. 

5. Draw line 7 from dot F; line 8 from dot E; 
and line 9 from dot G, all square across paper. 

6. Make dot H on line 8, one-half inch from 
dot E. 

7. Make dot I on line 9, one-fourth inch from 
dotG. 

8. Drawjine 10 from dot B to dot H, perfect- 
ly straight. 

9. Draw line 11 from dot H, down, straight 
across dot I. 

10. Make dot J on line 6, the chest measure 
from junction of lines 6 and 10, using FIFTHS 
of an inch. 

11. Make dot K on line 7, the waist measure 
from dot F, using SEVENTHS of an inch. 

12. Make dot L on line. 8, the waist measure 
from dot H, using NINTHS of an inch. 

13. Make dot M on line 9, the seat measure 
from dot G, using NINTHS of an inch. 

14. With CURVATURES, small end up, the 
A star at dot K, draw curved line 12 from dot K 
to dot J. 

15. Draw line 13 from dot K to dot L straight. 

16. Draw line 14 from dot L, down, straight 
across dot M. 

17. Draw line 15 from lowest end of line 5 to 
dot J, using 'Arm t Shape for Back " to get the 
curve. 

18. Make dot N on line 11, the skirt measure 
below dot H. 

19. Make dot O on line 14, the skirt measure 
below dot L. 

20. Draw line 16 from dot N to dot O, 
straight. 

21. Some cutters make the back of a Sack 
Coat from three-fourths to one and one-fourth 
inches wider from dot K to dot 0, as shown by 
the dotted line in Fig. 55. Others leave lines 
10 and 11 out, placing line 1 on the fold of the 

goods, thus cutting the back without a seam down the center. Either of these 
changes may be made if desired. 




Address all Communications to The flood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. 



11 



Sack Coat— Front. (Fig. 56.) 



no. 5G. 



1. Draw lines 1, 
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8, 
and make dots A, 
B, C, D, E. F, G, H, 
I, J and K exactly 
as in the Front of 
a Cutaway Frock 
Coat. (Fig. 51.) 

2. Draw line 9 
from dot K, up- 
wards four inches, 
perfectly straight 
and square with 
line 8. 

3. Make dot L 
on line 9, the arm's 
eye measure above 
dot K, using FIFTHS 
of an inch. 

4. Draw line 10 
from dot L, square 
across paper. 

5. Make dot M 
on line 10, one and 
one -fourth inches 
from dot L. 

6. Place CURV- 
ATURES, small 
end up, the Z star 
at dot K,and draw 
curved line 11 from 
dot K to dot M. 

7. Turn CURV- 
ATURES, small 
end from you, the 
Z star at dot J, and 
draw curved line 
12 from dot J to 
dotK. 

8. Place CUR V- 
ATURES, large 
end up,the RR star 
at dot J, draw curv- 
ed line 13 from dot 
J to lowest end of 
line 4. 

9. Make dot N 
on line 8, the chest measure, from dot K, using SEVENTHS of an inch. 

10. Make dot on line 8, one-half inch inside of dot N. 

11. Measure the length of line 5 in the back, and deduct this from your front 
measure. Now make dot P on line 1, the remainder of the front measure, from 
dot B, measuring in a straight line from dob B to the point on line 1 where dot 
P is to come. 

12. Draw line 14 from dot P, square across paper. 

13. With CURVATURES, small end up, the H star at dot F, draw curved 
line 15 forom dot F to dot H. * 

14. Make dot Q on line 14, one-fourth inch further from dot P than dot K is 
from dot H. 

15. Make dot R. on line 14, one and one-fourth inches outside dot Q. 

16. With CURVATURES, small end up, the C star at dot Q, draw curved 
line 16 from dot K to dot Q 

17. With CURVATURES, large end up, the E star at dot R, draw curved 
line 17 from dot K to dot R. 




Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



12 CUTTING FOE MEN AND BOYS, 

18. Extend lines 16 and 17, down, so that they will come to a point, four and 
one-half inches below line 14. 

19. Make dot S on line 14, the waist measure from dot R, using SEVENTHS 
of an inch. 

20. With CURVATURES, small end up, the R star at dot M, draw curved 
line 18 from dot M to dor O. 

21. With CURVATURES, large end up, the A star at dot O, draw curved 
line 19 from dot O to dot S. 

22. Draw line 20 down from dot S, giving the same slope that line 19 has, 
and make dot T, the skirt measure below dot S. 

23. Make dot U on line 1, the skirt measure below dot P. 

24. Draw line 21 from dot TJ to dot T, straight. 

25. Round the corner at dot U, drawing line 22, to suit fancy. 

26. Use the same collar and sleeve for Sack Coat as is used for Frock Coat. 
(See Figs. 52 and 53.) The lower part of the skirt, in front, may be shaped so as 
to give the cutaway effect, as in the Frock Coat, if desired. The pocket should 
be cut square with line 1. All seams are allowed In the drafting. 



Double-Breasted Coats. 

The Double-breasted Coat is cut exactly like the single-breasted Coat, except 
that from one and one-half to two inches are allowed in the front drafting, outside 
of line 1, and a small dart is taken out at the neck. This is plainly illustrated 
in the Prince Albert Coat (Fig. 54), where line 3 takes the place of line 1, in 
making the drafting; and line 1 being one and one-half inches outside of line 
3, gives one-half of the lap for a double breast, which makes the buttons four 
inches apart at the top, and three and one-half inches apart at the waist, when 
coat is buttoned up. (The buttons in all double-breasted frock coats, should be 
sewed one-half inch nearer the edge of coat at the waist than at the top.) The 
neck and neck-dart may be made exactly as in Fig. 54, but, except in the Prince 
Albert Coat, the lapel is not cut off below dot P, and the dart comes to a point 
four inches below the neck. 



Overcoats. (Sack and Frock.) 

The Overcoat, being worn over the Sack or Frock Coat, must, of course, be 
larger than those coats. Therefore, before commencing to draft an Overcoat, 
enlarge vour measures, as follows: Neck, two inches; arm'p eye, two inches; chest, 
three inches; waist, three inches; shoulder, one inch; seat, three inches; elbow, one 
and ond half inches; wrist, one and one-half inches. You now use the same instruc- 
tions given for a sack or frock coat, in back, front, sleeve and collar. If you 
want coat double-breasted, you should make front two inches wider as instructed, 
under the head of "Double-Breasted Coats", and take out the dart at neck. 



Vest— Back. (Fig. 57.) 



I. Draw lines 1 and 2, the same as in the back of a coat. 

2 Make dot A on line 2, the neck measure from junction of lines 1 and 2, 
using FIFTHS of an inch. 

3. Make dot B on line 1, one-half inch below junction of lines 1 and 2. 

4. Make dot C on line 1, three and one-half inches below dot B. 

5. Make dot D on line 1, the back measure below dot B. 

6. Make dot E on line 1, one inch less than the under arm measure above dot D. 

7. Make dot F on line 1, two inches above dot E. 

8. Make dot G on line 1, two inches below dot D. 

9. Place Y corner of Scale at dot A, and draw curved line 3 from dot A to dot 
B, using curved side of Scale. 

10. Draw line 4 from dot C; line 5 from dot F; line 6 from dot E, and line 7 
from dot D, all square across paper. Now make dot H on line 7, one-half inch 
from dot D. 

II. Place the W corner of Scale at dot A, the star seven inches from the cor- 
ner, resting on line 4, and draw line 8 to a point one and three-fourths inches less 
than the shoulder measure. 

Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. 



13 




12. Draw line 9 from dot C to dot H, 
straight. 

13. Place Y corner at dot H, and draw 
line 10 from dot H to dot G, using curved 
side of Scale. 

14. Make dot I on line 5, the chest meas- 
ure from junction of lines 5 and 9, using 
FIFTHS of an inch. 

15. Make dot J on line 5, three-fourths of 
an inch from dot I, toward you. 

16. Make dot K on line 6, the chest meas- 
ure from the junction of lines 6 and 9, using 
FOURTHS of an inch. 

17. Make dot L on line 6, one and one- 
fourth inches from dot K, from you. 

18. Make dot M on line 7, the waist 
measure from dot H, using FOURTHS of 
an inch. 

19. Make dot N on line 7, one and one- 
fourth inches outside of dot M. 

20. Make dot three and one-half inches 
below dot N, and in a direct line with dots 
L and N. 

21. With CURVATURES, small end 
from you, the Y star at dot J, draw curved 
line 11 from dot J to dot L, using the short 
side. 

22. With CURVATURES, large end up, 
the S star at dot J, draw curved line 12 
from dot J to lowest end of line 8. 

23. With CURVATURES, small end 
toward you, the H star at dot G, draw 
curved line 13 from dot G to dot O. 



24. Draw Line 14 from dot L to dot O, straight across dot N. 



Vest— Front. (Fig. 58.) 



1. Draw lines 1 and 2 as in the back. 

2. Make dot A on line 1, the neck measure below the junction of lines 1 and 
using FIFTHS of an inch. 



two inches below dot A. 

one inch less than one-half of the arm's eye measure, 



3. Make dot B on line 1 

4. Make dot C on line 1. 
below dot B. 

5. Make dot D on line 1, two inches below dot C. 

6. Draw line 3 from dot A; line 4 from dot B; line 5 from dot C, and line 6 
from dot D, all square across paper. 

7. Make dot E on line 2, two inches from the junction of lines 1 and 2. 

8. Make dot F on line 2, double the neck measure from dot E, using SEV- 
ENTHS of an inch. 

9. Make dot G on line 2 f one and one-fourth inches from dot F. 

10. Make dot H on line 3, one-fourth inch nearer to dot A than the distance 
between dot F and the junction of lines 1 and 2. 

11. Make dot I on line 3, one and three-eighths inches from dot H. 

12. Make dot J on line 4, three fourths of an inch nearer to dot B, than the dis- 
tance between dots A and H. 

13. Make dot K on line 5, the chest measure from dot C, using FOURTHS of 
an inch. 

14. Make dot L on line 5. one-half inch inside of dot K. 

15. Make dot M on line 6, one inch from dot D. 

16. Make dot N on line 6, the chest measure from dot M, using FOURTHS 
of an inch. 

17. Make dot O on line 6, one inch outside of dot N. 

18. Draw line 7 from dot G to dot I, straight. 

19. Place the W corner of Scale at dot I, the star seven inches from the cor- 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



14 



CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 



ner resting on line 4, and draw- 
line 8 to a point one and three-fourths 
inches less than the shoulder meas- 
ure. 

20. Draw line 9 from dot J to 
dot M, straight. 

21. With CUR YATURES,large 
end up, the H star at dot H, draw 
curved line 10 from dot H to dot F. 

22. WithCURVATURES,large 
end up, the H star at dot J, draw 
curved line 11 from dot J to dot H. 

23. With CURT ATURES,small 
end from you, the Y star at dot L, 
draw curved line 12 from dot O 
to dot L, using: short side. 

24. WithCURYATURES,large 
end up, the RR star at dot L, draw 
curved line 13 from dot L to low- 
est end of line 8. 

25. Measure the length of line 
3 in the back, and deduct this 
from your front measure. Now 
make dot P on line 1, the remain- 
der of the front measure, from dot 
H, measuring in a straight line 
from dot H to the point on line 1 
where dot P is to come. 

26. Make dot Q on line 1, the 
front measure below dot P, using 
FOURTHS of an inch. 

27. Make dot R on line 1, one 
and one-half inches above dot Q. 

28. Draw line 14 from dot P, 
and line 15 from dot R, square 
across paper. 

29. Draw line 16 from dot M to 
dot Q, straight. 

30. Make dot S on line 14, the 
waist measure irom the junction of lines 14 and 16, using FOURTHS of an inch. 

31. Make dot T on line 14, one inch outside of dot S. 

32. Make dot S on line 15, the waist measure from dot R, using FOURTHS 
of an inch. 

33. Make dot U on line 15, one and one-half inches outside of dot U. 

34. Draw line 17 from dot to dot T, straight. 

35. With CURVATURES, small end up, the A star at dot V, draw curved 
line 18 from dor V to dot T. 

36 With CURVATURES, small end toward you, the H star at dot Q, draw 
curved line 19 from dot Q to dot V. 

37. This is a very stylish vest. It is made without a rolling collar. The nar- 
row piece of cloth between lines 7 and 10 in Fig. 58, extends back to the center 
of back-neck. The point to whieh first button comes, can be changed accord- 
ing to fancy, by raising or lowering dot M. The pockets should come about 
four inches above the bottom of vest, and be square with line 1. 




Dressing Gowns. 

Dressing gowns are cut by the same instructions, as given for a sack coat, ex- 
cept that, skirt usually runs down to a point just above or below the knee. 
They may be cut single or double breasted. If heavily quilted, as is sometimes 
done for old people or invalids the measures should be taken a little larger, so 
as to allow for the padding, which takes up considerable room. 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



H 2 FIG - 59 




Trousers — Back. 
(Fig. 59.) 

1. Draw lines 1 and 2, the 
same as in a coat drafting. 

2. Make dot A on line 1, 
the seat measure below junc- 
tion of lines 1 and 2, using 
NINTHS of an inch. 

3. Make dot B on line 1, 
outside leg measure below 
dot A. 

4. Make dot C on line 1, 
the inside leg measure, above 
dotB. 

5. Make dot D on line 1, 
two inches less than half the 
distance between dots C and 
B, below dot C. 

6. Make dot E on line 1, 
half way between dots A 
and C. 

7. Make dot F on line 1 t 
one and one-half inches more 
than half the distance be- 
tween dots C and D, below 
dotC. 

8. Make dot G on line 1, 
two inches less than half the 
distance between dots D and 
B, below dot D. 

9. Draw line 3 from dot A; 
line 4 from dot E; line 5 from 
dot C; line 6 from dot F; line 
7 from dot D; line 8 from dot 
G, and line 9 from dot B, all 
square across paper. 

10. Make dot H on line 2, 
one and one-fourth inches from 
the junction of lines 1 and 2. 

11. Make dot I on line 2, 
the waist measure from dot 
H, using FOURTHS of an 
inch. 

12. Make dot J on line 3, 
one and one-eghth inches from 
dot A. 

13. Make dot K on line 5, 
one inch from dot C. 

14. Make dot L on line 5, 
double the seat measure from 
dot C, using FIFTHS of an 
inch. 

15. Make dot M on line 7, 
three-fourths of an inch from 
dotD. 

16. Make dot N on line 7, 
one inch more than half of 
knee measure, from dot M. 

17. Make dot on line 9, 
two inches more than one- half 
of ankle measure, from dot B. 

18. Draw line 10 from dot 
I to dot L, straight. 



16 



CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 




D^ 



N 



13 



8 



19. Make dot P on line 4, one inch 
inside of line 10. 

20. Make dot Q on line 6, one inch 
more than the distance between dots 
D and N, from dot F. 

21. Make dot R on line 8, one-fourth 
inch less than the distance between 
dots D and N, from dot G. 

22. Draw line 11 from dot J to dot 
I, straight. 

23. Make dot S on line 11, two and 
one-half inches from dot J. 

24. Make dot T on line 11, three- 
fourths of an inch from dot S. 

25. Draw line 12 from dot S, and 
line 13 from dot T, so that they will 
come to a point three and one-half inches 
below line 11. 

26. Draw line 14 from dot J to dot 
K; line 15 from dot K to dot M, and 
line 16 from dot, M to dot B, all straight. 

27. With CURT ATURES,small end 
up, the D star at dot P, draw curved 
line 17 from dot P to dot I. 

28. With CURVATURES, small end 
up, the H star at dot P, draw curved 
line 18 from dot P to dot L. 

29. With CURYATURES, small end 
up, the A star at dot Q draw curved 
line 19 from dot Q to dot L. 

30. With CURVATURES, small end 
up, the B star at dot N, draw curved 
line 20 from dot N to dot Q. 

31. Draw line 21 from dot N to dot 
R, and line 22 from dot R to dot O, 
both straight. 



Trousers— Front. 



(Pig. 60.) 



1. Draw lines 1 and 2, same as in 
the back. 

2. Make dot A on line 1, one-half inch 
below junction of lines 1 and 2. 

3. Make dot B on line 1 the outside 
leg measure below dot A. 

4. Make dot C on line 1, one-half 
inch more than the inside leg measure 
above dot B. 

• 5. Make dot D on line 1, two inches 
less than one-half the distance between 
dots C and B, below dot C. 

6. Make dot E on line 1, three and 
one-fourth inches above dot C. 

7. Make dot F on line 1, one inch 
less than one-half the distance between 
dots C and D, below dot C. 

8 Make dot G on line 2, one and 
one-fourth inches from junction of lines 
1 and 2. 

9. Make dot H on line 2, the waist 
measure from dot G, using FOURTHS 
of an inch. 



10. Draw line 3 from dot A to dot H, straight. 



Address all Commnnicatioiis to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. IT 



11. Make dot I on line 3, one inch from dot A. 

12. Draw line 4 from dot E; line 5 from dot C; line 6 from dot F; line 7 from 
dot D, and line 8 from dot B, all square across paper. 

13. Make dot J on line 4, as far from dot E as dot I is from dot H. 

14. Make dot K on line 4, one-half inch outside of dot J. 

15. Make dot L on line 5, double the seat measure from dot C, using SEV- 
ENTHS of an inch. 

±6. Make dot M on line 5, three-fourths of an inch outside of dot L. 

17. Make dot N on line 7, one-half of the knee measure from dot D. 

18. Make dot on line 8, one-half of the ankle measure from dot B. 

19. Draw line 9 from dot H to dot K, straight. 

20. Draw line 10 from not H to dot J, straight. 

21. Draw line 11 from dot M to dot N, straight. 

22. Draw line 12 from dot L to junction of lines 6 and 11, straight. 

23. Draw line 13 from dot N to dot O, straight. 

24. With Curvatures, small end up, the F star at dot I, draw curved line 

14 from dot I to dot C. 

25. With Curvatures, large end up, the I star at dot M, draw curved line 

15 from dot M to dot K, around the short curve. 

26. In same way, draw curved line 16 from dot L to dot J. 

27. In cutting the left front, cut on lines 11 and 15; and for the right front, 
cut on lines 12 and 16. Line 11 should run almost straight from dot M to dot O. 
If there is too much of a notch at dot N in Fig. 60, straighten it out, as shown 
by the dotted the line. All seams are allowed in the drafting. Line 11 from, 
dot J to dot I in back, and line 3 from dot I to dot H in front, are the waist lines, 
to which the waistband is sewed. 



Shrinking Cloth. 



In cutting woolen gooes for coat, vest, trousers, or underclothing, it is best to 
shrink the goods before cutting, which is done as follows: Roll a double thick- 
ness of cotton cloth, which has been thoroughly wet, in with the woolen goods, 
and let stand for four to six hours. Then unroll the goods, remove the cotton 
cloth, and let the woolen goods lay (unrolled) on a long table, until thoroughly 
dried. Unless the cotton cloth is wet enough to thoroughly dampen the woolen 
goods, no good will be accomplished. 



Boy's Coat. 

BACK. — The back of a boy's coat is drafted exactly like the Sack Coat (Fig. 55),. 
except that when the shoulder measure is less ihan 5, you make a new dot J, in 
a direct line between the lowest end of line 5 and dot J, the arm's eye measure 
from lowest end of line 5, using SIXTHS of an inch, and then draw line 12 from 
the new dot J instead of the old dot J. 

FRONT. — The front of a boy's coat is drafted exactly like the front of a Sack 
Coat (Fig. 56). except that the distance between dots Q and R should be only 
three -fourths of an inch. 

SEEEVE. — The sleeve for s boy is drafted the same as the Coat Sleeve (Fig. 
52), except that when the arm's eye measure is less than 11, dots J, K and L 
should be made one inch nearer to line 1, and dot M one-half inch nearer than as 
instructed for drafting Fig.- 52. 

Boy's Waist— Back. (Pig. 20.) 

1. Draw lines 1 and 2, the same as for a coat. 

2. Make dot A on line 1, one-fourth inch below junction lines 1 and 2. 

3. Make dot B on line l,four inches below junction of lines 1 and 2. 

4. Draw line 3 from dot A, and line 4 from dot B, square across paper. 

5. Draw line 5 from line 1, the back measure below dot A. 

6. Make dot on line 5, the waist measure from line 1, using FIFTHS of an 
inch. 

7. Make dot F on line 1, the under arm measure above junction of lines 1 
and 5; draw line 6 from dot F, square across paper, and make dot K on line 6 > 
the chest measure from dot F, using back bust figures on curved side of Scale. 

Address all Communications to The Kood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 



Fie. 20 



^V 


A N 


,8 3 


i 

, 4 


(10 


B 




m 


6 






F 




\ 




9 


r 


f 5_ 


E 

1 


V 



8. Draw line 7 from line 2 to dot A, using the neck meas- 
ures and curve in "Back Neck" on Scale. 

9. Draw line 8 the exact shoulder measure from the neck, 
placing Scale in same position as for drawing line 5 in Fig. 50. 

10. Make dot M in a direct line between lowest end of line 
8 and dot K, the arm's eye measure below lowest end of line 
8, using FOURTHS of an inch. 

11. Draw line 18 from dot M to dot O, straight. 

12. Draw line 10 from lowest end of line 8 to dot M, using 
'Arm Siiape for Back." on Scale. 



Boy's Waist— Front. (Fig. 21.) 



1. Draw lines 1 and 2, as in the back. 

2. Make dot A on line 2, the neck measure from junction 
of lines 1 and 2, using FIFTHS of an inch. 

3. Make dot B on line 1, two inches below junction lines 1 
and 2 

4. Make dot C on line 1, half of arm's 
eye measure below dot B. 

5. Make dot D on line 1, the under arm 
measure below dot C. 

6 Draw line 3 from dot B ; line 4 from 
dot C, and line 5 from dot D, all square 
across paper. 

7. Make dot X on line 5, double the 
waist measure, from dot D, using FIFTHS 
of an inch. 

8. Make dot F on line 4, the chest meas- 
ure from dot C, using the "Front Bust" fig- 
ures on curved side of Scale. 

9. Draw line 6 from line 2, down square 
across dot F. 

10. Make dot G on line 6, the length of 
line 18 in the back, above the waist. 

11. Make dot H on line 4, the arm's eye 
neasure from dot F, using SIXTHS of an 
men. 

12. Draw line 7 from dot A, the exact 
shoulder measure, placing Scale in the same position as for drawing line 4 in 
Fig. 51. 

13. Draw line 8 from lowest end line 7, down perfectly square. 

14. With Curvatures, large end up, the P star at dot G, draw line 9 from 
dot G to dot H; now move Curvatures around until the Q star rests at dot H, 
and extend line 9 up to lowest end of line 7. 

15. With Curvatures, small end up, the H star at dot G, draw curved line 
33 from dot G to dot X. 

16. Draw line 10 from dot A to line 1, using the neck measures and curve in 
" Front Neck" on Scale. 

17. In cutting out, allow narrow seams everywhere, except at neck and arm 
hole. A waistband should be cut to fit around the waist, and the fullness in bot- 
tom of waist "fulled in" to the band. You can use the coat sleeve Fig. 52, by 
making dots J, K and L one inch, and dot M one-half inch nearer to line 1 than as 
per instructions given for making those dots in Fig. 52. (See sleeve for Boy's 
Coat, page 17.) 



Fig. 21 

A, 2 




P 1 3 Tl 




> 


6 




4 


V2 




t 


8 B 


\23 


,D 5 




\ £ 






X 



Boy's Knee Pants— Back. (Fig. 22.) 

1. Draw lines 1 and 2, the same as in back of Trousers. 

2. Make dot A on line 1, one-half the seat measure, below junction of lines 
1 and 2, using NINTHS of an inch. 

3. Make dot C on line 1, one inch more than outside leg measure, below dot A, 

4. Make dot D on line 1, the inside leg measure, above dot C. 

5. Draw line 4 from dot C, and line 5 from dot D, square across paper. 

6. Make dot E on line 4, one-half of knee measure, from dot C. 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. 



19 



Fig.22 

2 HL J 





7. Make dot F on line 5, one-half inch from dot D 

8. Make dot H on line 2, the waist measure from 
junction of lines 1 and 2, using FOURTHS of an 
inch. 

9. Make dot I on line 2, one and one-half inches 
from dot H. 

10. Make dot J on line 5, double the seat meas- 
ure from dot D, using SIXTHS of an inch. 

11. Draw line 6 from dot A to dot F, straight. 

12. Draw line 8 from dot A to dot I, straight. 

13. With Curvatures, large end up, the B star 
at dot F, draw curved line 7 from dot F to dot C. 

14. With Curvatures, small end up, the A star 
at dot J, draw curved line 9 from dot I to dot J. 

15. With Curvatures, large end up, the X star 
at dot J, draw curved line 10 from dot J to dot E. 



Boy's Knee Pants- 
(Fig. 23.) 



-Front. 



1. Draw lines 1 and 2, the same as in back. 

2. Make dot A on line 1, one-half inch below 
junction lines 1 and 2. 

3. Make dot B on line 1, one inch more than out- 
side leg measure, below dot A. 

4. Make dot C on line 1, one and one-fourth inches 
more than the inside leg measure above dot B. 

5. Draw line 4 from dot B, and line 5 from dot 
C, square across paper. 

6. Make dot D on line 4, one-half inch less than 
the half of knee measure from dot B. 

7. Make dot H on line 5, double the seat meas- 
ure from dot C, using SEVENTHS of an inch. 

8. Make dot G on line 2, three-fourths of an inch 
more than the waist measure from junction of lines 
1 and 2, using FOURTHS of an inch. 

9. Draw line 3 from dot A to dot G, straight. 

10. With Curvatures, large end up, the R star 
at dot H, draw curved line 9 from dot H to dot G. 

11. With Curvatures, small end up, the H star 
at dot H, draw curved line 7 from dot H to dot D. 

12. Now measure line 7 from dot H to dot D, 
and if line 10 in the back is not as long as line 7 in 
the front, extend line 10 in back down to the same 
length as line 7 in front, and draw a new line 4 
from dot C to the bottom of line 10. Line 7 in 
front sews to line 10 in back, and these two lines 
should be the same length. 

13. All seams are allowed in the drafting. Cut 
on the lines. Face the top of pants around the 
waist. (See note 6 on third page of cover.) 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



20 



CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 




Drawers— Back and 
Front. (Fig. 61.) 

1. Draw lines 1 and 2,"the 
same as in Trousers. 

2. Make dot A on line 1, 
three and one-half inches below 
junction of lines 1 and 2. 

3. Make dot B on line 1, 
three inches less than the out- 
side leg measure below dot A. 

4. Make dot C on line 1, 
three inches less than the in- 
side leg measure above dot B. 

5. Make dot D on line 1, 
half way between dots B & C, 

6. Make dot E on line 1, 
one inch below dot C. 

7. Make dot F on line 1, 
five inches below dot A. 

8. Draw line 3 from dot A; 
line 4 from dot C; line 5 from 
dot E; line 6 from dot D, and 
line 7 from dot B, all square 
across paper. 

9. Make dot G on line 2 r 
one inch from junction of lines 
1 and 2. 

r 10. Make dot H on line 2, 
the waist measure from dot 
G,using FOURTHSof an inch 

11. Make dot I on line 3, 
one inch from dot A. 

12. Make dot J on lineI3, 
the waist measure from dot I, 
using FOURTHS of an inch. 

13. Make dot K on line 4, 
double the seat measure from 
dot C, using SEVENTHS of 
an inch. 

14. Make dot L on line 4, 
three-fourths of an inch outside 
of dot K. 

15. Make dot M on line 5, 
double the seat measure from 
dot E, using FIFTHS of an 
inch. 

16. Make dot N on line 6, 
one-half of the knee meas- 
ure from dot D. 

17. Make dot on line 7, 
six inches from dot B. 

18. Draw line 8 from dot J 
down exactly square to line 4. 

19. Make dot P on line 8, 
three and one -fourth inches 
above line 4. 

20. Draw line 9 from dot I 
to dot H ; line 10 from dot L 
to dot N, and line 11 from dot 
N to dot 0, all straight. 

21. With Curvatures, 
small end- up, the H star as 
dot I, draw curved line 12: 
from dot I to dot F. 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. 



21 



22. With Curvatures, small end up, the A star at dot M, draw curved line 

13 from dot M to dot H. 

23. With Curvatures, small end up, the H star at dot M, draw curved line 

14 from dot M to dot N. 

24. With Curvatures, large end up, the I star at dot L, draw curved line 

15 from dot L to dot P, around the short curve. 

25. To trace out, place line 1 on the fold of the goods, from dot B to dot F, 
and trace lines 12, 9, 3 (from dot I to dot J), 8 (from dot J to dot P), 15, 13, 14, 
10, 11 and 7. 

26. Remove drafting, and cut along lines 12, 9, 13, 14, 11 and 7, allowing nar- 
row seams; now cut the upper thickness of cloth along lines 3, 8, 15 and 10, 
allowing narrow seams. This gives the back and front of one leg in one piece. 

27. The dotted lines in Fig. 61, represent the facing around the waist and 
down the front, and should be from one and one-half to two inches deep, and is all 
the waistband that is required. 

28. When the stomach is very prominent, make a new dot J, one-half to three- 
fourths of an inch above old dot J, and draw a line from dot I to the new dot J, 
and use this line for the waist line instead of line 3, as such a form requires the 
waist line in the front to slope upwards from dot I. 

29. If desired, the leg may be made smaller at the ankle, and fastened with 
buttons instead of strings. 



FIG.2B. 

A 2 




k: 



14' 



15 



Shirt— Back. (Fig. 26.) 

1. Draw lines 1 and 2 the same as for a 
coat. C 

2. Make dot A on line 2, the neck meas- 
ure from junction of lines 1 and 2, using 
FOURTHS of an inch. 

3. Make dot B on line 1, the neck meas- 
ure below junction of lines 1 and 2, using 
SEVENTHS of an inch. 

4 f Make dot C on line 1, two and one-half 
inches below junction of lines 1 and 2. 

5. Draw line 3 from dot C, square across 
paper. 

6. Make dot D on line 3, two and one-half 
inches from dot C. 

7. Draw line 4 from junction of lines 1 
and 2 to dot D, straight. 

8. Make dot E on line 4, the neck meas- 
ure from junction of lines 1 and 2, using 
SIXTHS of an inch. 

9. With Curvatures, the I star at dot 
A, draw curved line 5 from dot A to dot E, 
using short curve. 

10. With Curvatures, the A star at 
dot E, draw curved line line 6 from dot E 
to dot B. 

11. Place the W corner of Scale at dot 
A, the star seven inches from the corner 
resting on line 3, aud draw line 7 from dot 
A to a point one-half inch less than shoulder 
measure. 

12. Make dot F on line 1, one inch more 
than one-half of arm's eye measure below 
dotC. 

13. Draw line 8 from dot F square across 
paper. 

14. Make dot H on line 8, double the 
chest measure from dot F, using SIXTHS 
of an inch. 

15. Draw line 9 from lowest end of line 
7 down, square to line 8. 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



22 



CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 



16. Make dot I on line 9, five inches below lowest end of line 7. 

17. With Curvatures, large end up, the R star at dot H, draw curved line 
10 from dot H to dot I ; now move Curvatures up until the RR star restsat 
dot I, and extend line 10 up to the lowest end of line 7. 

18. Make dot J on line 1, the under arm measure below dot F. 
Draw line 11 from dot J, square across paper. 
Make dot K on line 11, as far from dot J as dot H is from dot F. 
Make dot L on line 1, one inch more than the skirt measure, below dot J. 
Draw line 12 irom dot L, square across paper. 
Make dot M on line 12 the same distance from dot L, that dot K is from 



19. 
20. 
21. 
22. 
23. 
dot J. 

24. With Curvatures, the small end up, the A star at dot K, draw curved 
line 13 from dot K to dot H. 

25. With Curvatures, large end up, the A star at dot K, draw curved line 
14 from dot K to dot M. 

26. Round off the corner, near dot M, by drawing curved line 15 to suit your 
fancy. 

27. The dotted lines in Eig. 26 show the only difference between a sack and 
a yoke shirt. If you desire a sack shirt, the dotted lines and dots N, 0, P, Q 
and R are not made. If you desire a yoke shirt, make dot N two inches below 
dot C; draw the long dotted line one and one-half inches outside of line 1, and 
the short dotted line from the long dotted line, square across paper, and so that 

it will cross dot N. Make dot O, two and one- 
half inches from dot N; dot P, three-fourths of an 
inch from dot ; dot Q, three inches from dot P* 
and dot R, three-fourths of an inch from dot Q. 
That part of the shirt aboye the dotted line, 
is the yoke ; and the space, on lower part of 
shirt, between dots and R, should be gath- 
ered into the space on yoke, between dots P 
and Q, thus taking up the one and one-half 
inches that extend beyond line 1. In cutting 
shirt, allow narrow seams on both yoke and 
lower part, to which the yoke sews. The 
yoke should always be faced or lined. The 
sack shirt is the neatest fitting, as it contains 
less fullness and sets snugly to the form. For 
laboring men the yoke shirt is the most satis- 
factory, as there is more room in it. 




Shirt— Front. (Fig. 27.) 

1. Drawjines 1 and 2, the same as in the 
back. 

2. Make dot A on line 2, the neck measure 
from the junction of lines 1 and 2, using SEV- 
ENTHS of an inch. 

3. Make dot B on line 1, one inch below 
junction lines 1 and 2. 

4. Make "dot C on line 1, the neck measure 
below junction of lines 1 and 2, using SIXTHS 
of an inch. 

12 5. Draw line three from dot B, square 
across paper. 

6. With Curvatures, the I star at dot A, 
draw curved line 4 from dot A to dot C, using 
short curve. 

7. Place the W corner of Scale at dot A, 
the star seven inches from the corner resting 
on line 3, and draw line 5 from dot A to a 
point one-half inch less than the shoulder 
measure, from dot A. 

8. Make dot D on line 1, one-half inch more 
than half che arm's eye measure below dot D. 



Address all Coimmunications to The Kood Magic Scale Co., C_uincy, 111, 



BY THE MAGIC SCALE. 23 



9. Draw line 6 from dot D, square across paper. 

10. Deduct two inches from yoar chest measure, and make dot E on line 6, 
double the remainder of chest measure from dot D (this means, that if your 
chest measure is 36, you make dot E double 34), using SIXTHS of an inch. 

11. Make dot F on line 6, one and one-half inches from dot E, toward you. 

12. Omit line 7, and with Curvatures, large end up, the Q star at dot E, 
draw curved line 8 from dot E to dot F; now move Curvatures so that Q star 
will rest at dot F, and extend line 8 up to lowest end of line 5. 

13. Make dot G on line 1, the under arm measure below dot D. 

14. Draw line 9 from dot G, square across paper. 

1?. Make dot H on line 9, as far from dot G as dot E is from dot D. 

16. Make dot I on line 1, the skirt tneasure below dot G. 

17. Draw line 10 from dot I, square across paper. 

18. Make dot J on line 10, as far from dot I as dot H is from dot G. 

19. With Curvatures, small end up, the A star at dot H, draw curved line 

11 from from dot E to dot H. 

20. With Curvatures, large end up, the A star at dot H, draw curved line 

12 from dot H to dot J. 

21. Round off the corner near dot J, by'drawing curved line 13 the same 
shape as line 15 in back. 

22. To get the bosom (see Fig. 27), make dot K on line 1, the length of bosom 
desired, below dot C. 

23. Draw line 14 from dot K, square across paper, three and one-half inches 
long. 

24. Make dot L on line 14, one and three-fourths inches from dot K, 

25. Make dot M on line 14, three" and one-half inches from dot K. 

26. Make dot N on line 6, one and three-fourths inches from dot D. 

27. Make dot on line 6, three and one-half inches from dot D, 

28. Draw line 15 from dot L, straight across dot N to the neck (line 4), 

29. Draw line 16 from dot M, straight across dot O to the shoulder (line 5). 

30. If you prefer the shield-shaped, or oval bosom, make dot P on line 14, 
between dots L and M, one-half inch from dot L. 

31. With Curvatures, large end up, the H star at dot 0, draw curved line 
17 from dot O to dot A. 

32. Draw line 18 from dot to dot P, straight, Lines 17 and 18 take the 
place of line 16, and give the shield-shape. 

33. To get the neck band (see Fig. 27), draw lines 19 and 20 the same as lines 
1 and 2. 

34. Make dot Q on line 20, two and one-eighth inches'from the junction of lines 
19 and 20, 

35. Make dot R on line 20, three-fourths of an inch from dot Q. 

36. Make dot S on line 19, four inches below junction lines 19 and 20. 

37. Draw line 21 from dot S, square across paper. 

38- Make dot T on line 21, one and five-eighths inches from dot S. 

39. Make dot U on line 21, one inch outside dot T. 

40. Make dot V on line 19, six inches below dot S. 

41. Draw line 22 from dot V, square across paper. 

42. Make dot W on line 22, one inch from dot V. 

43. With Curvatures, large end up, the A star at dot R, draw curved line 
23 from dot R to dot U. 

44. With Curvatures, small end down, the G star at dot W, draw curved 
line 24 from dot W to dot U. 

45. With Curvatures, large end up, the A star at dot Q, draw curved line 
25 from dot Q to dot T, 

46. Draw line 26 from dot T to dot V, straight. This gives one-half the neck 
band for the largest sized neck. Dot Q sews to the center of front neck, and for 
a small sized neck you will have to cut band off at the V end. The neck band 
should be one-half inch smaller than the collar, measuring from center of 
button hole to the center of button. 

47. The front of a shirt is cut the same for a sack as for a yoke. In cutting, 
allow narrow seams everywhere except at neck and armhole. You can have 
shirt open in front, in the back, or on the shoulder. The bosom need not be 
drafted unless you are going to make it. 

Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale Co., Quincy, 111. 



24 



CUTTING FOR MEN AND BOYS 




Shirt Sleeve. (Pig. 28.) 

1. Draw lines 1 and 2 as in the back. 

2. Make dot A on line 2, three inches more than 
>ne-half of arm's eye measure from junction of lines 

1 and 2. 

3. Make dot B, two inches straight down from dot A 

4. Place Y corner of Scale at junction of lines 1 
and 2, and draw curved line 4 from said junction to 
dotB. 

5. Make dot C on line 1, the arm to elbow meas- 
ure below junction of lines 1 and 2. 

6. Draw line 5 from dot C, square across paper. 

7. Make dot D on line 5, one-half the arm's eye 
measure from dot C. 

8. With Curvatures, small end up, the H star 
at dot B, draw curved line 6 from dot B to dot D. 

9. Make dot E on line 1, the arm to wrist meas- 
ure, below junction of lines 1 and 2. 

10. Draw line 7 from dot E, square across paper. 

11. Make dot F on line 7, six inches from dot E. 

12. Draw line 8 from dot D to dot F, straight. 

13. This gives one-half of the sleeve. The lower 
part of sleeve is gathered and sewed to cuff or wrist 
band. The cuff may be cut with round or square 
corners, and to any desired size. A two-inch facing 
around top of sleeve is necessary, and a shirt that is 
faced from the neck to one inch below the armholes, 
all around, is far more durable. 



Undershirts. 

Undershirts are cut by the same rules as given for Figs. 26, 27 and 28, except 
that they are cut somewhat lower in the neck, and are not cut so long. If cut 
from flannel or woolen cloth, the cloth should be shrunk before cutting. (See 
■" Shrinking Cloth", page 17.) 

Nightshirts. 

For Nightshirts add two inches to your chest measure, and draft by rules given 
for Figs. 26, 27 and 28, Nightshirts are cut to come to within four to six inches of 
the floor, usually, but may be cut to any desired length, with more or less full- 
ness around the body. 

Cutting and Making. 

It is impossible, in this work, to give more than a general idea in regard to 
making men s coats. The sleeve is set so that the highest part of sleeve comes 
on the highest part of shoulder. The coat should be faced with same kind of 
material that coat is made of, from two to four inches from the front edge, and 
as far down as skirt line in a frock coat, and to the bottom of a sack coat. 

If you can get " Tailoi's Drafting Paper" from some tailor, it is best to draft 
on that, and then cut right on the line, as all seams in coat, vest and trousers 
have been allowed in the drafting. If you cannot do this, you can use the thin 
drafting paper, pinning it to the cloth, avoiding wrinkles, If padding is used, 
it is placed around the armhole and on the shoulder. All seams should be well 
pressed. (See note 8 on third page of cover.) 



Address all Communications to The Rood Magic Scale €o., Quincy, HI. 



2STOTES. 

1. In giving instructions for drafting for men it is necessary to use divisions 
and sub-divisions of inches, the numbers of which are not given on the Magic 
Scale. To find FOURTHS of an inch, you will have to count them on the 
Scale. As there are four FOURTHS in each inch, to find a waist measure 
of 40, you would use ten inches ; 42, ten and one-half inches ; 43, ten and 
three-fourth inches, and so on. 

2. To find FIFTHS of an inch, SIXTHS of an inch, SEVENTHS of an inch, 
or NINTHS of an inch, use the card which accompanies this book, upon the 
four edges of which you will find these divisions of an inch plainly printed. 
(This card belongs to and is sent with each book, free of charge. If the card 
is lost and you want another, we will send it postpaid on receipt of 10 cents.) 

3. In using FIFTHS of an inch (which only run to 45), your measure may 
be larger than the greatest number of FIFTHS on the card, in which case you 
make a little dot at 45 FIFTHS, and move the card up to this little dot, and 
make the dot you want, using the number of FIFTHS necessary to complete 
the measure, remembering that you have already used 45 FIFTHS. This also 
applies to SIXTHS, SEVENTHS and NINTHS, in cases where you use 
"double measure." 

4. When instructed to make a dot "double the chest measure" (or any 
measure), you simply double the measure. To illustrate: "Make dot B on 
line 2, double the neck measure from dot A, using SEVENTHS of an inch." 
Now if your neck measure is 15, you make dot B on line 2, 30 SEVENTHS of 
an inch from dot A, using the card. 

5. The CURVATURES, referred to in this book, are the same that we fur- 
nish with our Advanced Studies. If you nave not got one, we will send our 
best Cardboard Curvatures, on receipt of 25 cents, or Paper Curvatures for 10 
cents, post paid. The Curvatures does not go with this book, at 50 cents, any 
more than the Magic Scale does. It is a separate article. 

6. The engraving for Boy's Waists and Knee Pants (Figures 20, 21, 22 and 
23). also the engravings for Shirts (Figures 26, 27 and 28), are taken from our 
Advanced Studies, and as we have given the instructions for drafting these 
garments slightly different from that book, the cuts will not be exactly like 
the draftings made from this book, but as all the dots you are to make, and all 
the lines you are to draw, appear in these cuts, they will answer all practical 
purposes. 

7. By the "Short Curve" on CURVATURES, we mean the curve that be- 
gins with the I star and ends with the O star. It is the same as the neck 
curve in the Scale. 

8. We cannot undertake to make draftings from measures sent to us, as 
many times they are taken wrong, and two or three letters have to be written 
before we can go ahead with the drafting, and even then we are not sure that 
the measure is correct. We will make a complete drafting of any garment 
illustrated or described in this book, and send it postpaid for 50 cents, to the 
following measures : 

Neck, 14 ; Arm's-Eye, 14 ; Chest, 37 ; Waist, 33 ; Front, 22; Back, 19 ; Un- 
der- Arm, 10 ; Shoulder, 6J ; Seat, 40 ; Skirt, according to garment ; Arm-to- 
Elbow, 15| ; Arm-to- Wrist, 26 ; Elbow, 13£ ; Wrist, 7 ; Outside Leg, 46 ; Inside 
Leg, 35 ; Knee, 19 ; Ankle, 18. 

9. If measures are taken across chest, as per clause 20, page 2, dot K in 
front, Fig. 51, and dot J in back, Fig.. 50, may be moved in or out to correspond 
with such measures, but what you cut from the front must be added to the 
back, and what you cut from the back must be added to the front. This also 
applies to the Sack Coat. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



n 




014 082 888 9 # 




0014 082 888 



